The gearhead thread.

[philofumo]

Just your basic family 4WD SUV - dragging a Lamborghini.
Race it on weekends. Take the grandkids and the dog fishing during the week.

Very practical, don’t you think.
Everyone should have at least one.

Yowza!

I've always had utilitarian tastes in cars, with an emphasis on sporty practicality, that's why I drove a mid 80's Saab 900 from 1991 to 2018, built super sturdy by Swedish strength complete with oddball quirkiness. Before that it was 2 1979 Honda Accords which were also sensible. Now, this MINI is hilariously impractical but I can overlook the shortcomings due to perma-grin fun factor, but as my only vehicle it has some pretty severe limitations in real world usefulness --- it begs to be driven hard, I constantly rev it up to 7k and toss it into corners at crazy speeds.

It makes me feel like a dumb teenager really LOL perhaps it is my midlife crisis car?

And now veering,
in my life I've had several opportunities to buy an Alfa Romeo GTV, one of my alltime favorites, I came very very close to getting a '69 which is a more rare year to find. I ended up not getting any of them because I didn't think they could handle daily driving duties and would also likely require fastidious upkeep --- but dammit, back then, around 20 years ago now I reckon, we were talkin' like $5,500 for a good rust-free running example, and now they're through the roof!

Unobtainable by me.

https://bringatrailer.com/alfa-romeo/gtv/

That BaT auction site is interesting, or is it obscene?
I'm conflicted about it all in the materialist sense.
Although I love cool old rides, the money being spent nowadays on such stuff is pretty insane.

The air-cooled vintage Porsche market has reached levels of absurdity.

[philofumo]

Good to see you posting again Phil

Thanks.

[durangopipe]

Nice looking Mini, philo ...




Love this photo ...



Glad you posted the link!

[philofumo]

Nice looking Mini, philo ...




Love this photo ...



Glad you posted the link!

Thanks Durango!

I have major plans for the car as far as modifications and appearance goes,
and it's a fun but slow process inching toward my final goal.

I remember when these things first came out and I liked them, but saw one in a parking lot and peeked inside and saw how actually small it was cargo-wise compared to my old Saab, and scoffed at how tiny it was. Never did a test drive of one either, that would've deffo changed my tune!

But,
I couldn't have afforded one anyways back when they were newish because they were rather expensive.

My car came with the original window sticker and it cost $30,000 in late 2006!



They held their values well for a while too, but now they're at rock bottom on the curve and you can find 'em extremely cheap,
although the John Cooper Works package does add a slight premium over a regular S model.

It took me 6 months to find one without a sunroof --- most S models were optioned with a "panoramic sunroof" which not only adds weight, but causes nightmares when they fail or leak.

I finally found a slicktop JCW down in Clermont Florida and I went down there to buy it.

The gentleman I got it from was a cool dude, around 60 years old, and a Baptist pastor.

https://www.odbconline.org/word.html


So,
it is somewhat of a blessed vehicle!

[durangopipe]

The gentleman I got it from was a cool dude, around 60 years old, and a Baptist pastor.

https://www.odbconline.org/word.html


So,
it is somewhat of a blessed vehicle!

Very nice!

I wonder if he baptized it?
I understand that rabbis cut an inch off the tailpipe when they get a new car.

[philofumo]

The gentleman I got it from was a cool dude, around 60 years old, and a Baptist pastor.

https://www.odbconline.org/word.html


So,
it is somewhat of a blessed vehicle!

Very nice!

I wonder if he baptized it?
I understand that rabbis cut an inch off the tailpipe when they get a new car.

LOL

[sweetandsour]

I put more aggressive tires on our Ranger, along with a 2" lift kit. I saw no other jack points than the frame itself, so I used floor jacks, boards and jack stands to get the vehicle entirely off the ground. Finally was able to get the new tires and wheels mounted.



With the slightly wider front tires, the cleats rub the shock cylinder and spring. Here's the right side:



And the left side:



I don't know how bad of an issue this is. What will happen other than slightly worn cleats? Perhaps I should go ahead and purchase and install spacers? I'm thinking perhaps 1" spacers all the way around.

[philofumo]

If it were mine, I'd definitely get spacers.

Or at least find the appropriate sized washers to fit the between the wheel and hub as the lug bolts look plenty long enough,
that'd be the cheap solution, but probably not as robust as a proper spacer.

[sweetandsour]

If it were mine, I'd definitely get spacers.

Or at least find the appropriate sized washers to fit the between the wheel and hub as the lug bolts look plenty long enough,
that'd be the cheap solution, but probably not as robust as a proper spacer.

I bought a pair of 1" spacers for the front today. Will install tomorrow and see how they look.

[Thunktank]

This week I will begin the process of wrenching on the old Nissan. I took it to Arizona on the dove hunting trip. The engine pulled strong over the mountain pass, I was able to keep it in 5th gear at 70 mph the whole way up. But it needs a few things. A good father and sons project.

Power steering pump and related hoses and reservoir, idler arm, inner and outer tie ends, front stabilizer bar bushings, stabilizer link, front wheel bearings, front brake pads, rotors, shocks, torsion bar adjustment, fuel filter and transfer case fluid change.

I will take it in for clutch work, alignment and AC refill. When all done, I want new A/T tires.

I wonder if you fellas have any idea how much a clutch should cost to replace. The flywheel may or may not need replacement. The clutch works, but the master cylinder is leaking a bit and the clutch pedal is weak. I took it to a mechanic and they quoted me upwards of 3000k. I know this is ritzy Orange County, California, but really!?

[sweetandsour]

This week I will begin the process of wrenching on the old Nissan. I took it to Arizona on the dove hunting trip. The engine pulled strong over the mountain pass, I was able to keep it in 5th gear at 70 mph the whole way up. But it needs a few things. A good father and sons project.

Power steering pump and related hoses and reservoir, idler arm, inner and outer tie ends, front stabilizer bar bushings, stabilizer link, front wheel bearings, front brake pads, rotors, shocks, torsion bar adjustment, fuel filter and transfer case fluid change.

I will take it in for clutch work, alignment and AC refill. When all done, I want new A/T tires.

I wonder if you fellas have any idea how much a clutch should cost to replace. The flywheel may or may not need replacement. The clutch works, but the master cylinder is leaking a bit and the clutch pedal is weak. I took it to a mechanic and they quoted me upwards of 3000k. I know this is ritzy Orange County, California, but really!?

Seems slightly high. Perhaps your guy really doesn't want the job. Or maybe the quote includes new main seals and or other items. A quick cursory search shows parts at Abt $100.

Been a long time since I replaced a clutch. They're adjustable, also. Also be sure to check the pedal linkage, on the back firewall.

[Roadmaster]

Flywheel can probably be resurfaced may have to replace the ring gear

[Thunktank]

This week I will begin the process of wrenching on the old Nissan. I took it to Arizona on the dove hunting trip. The engine pulled strong over the mountain pass, I was able to keep it in 5th gear at 70 mph the whole way up. But it needs a few things. A good father and sons project.

Power steering pump and related hoses and reservoir, idler arm, inner and outer tie ends, front stabilizer bar bushings, stabilizer link, front wheel bearings, front brake pads, rotors, shocks, torsion bar adjustment, fuel filter and transfer case fluid change.

I will take it in for clutch work, alignment and AC refill. When all done, I want new A/T tires.

I wonder if you fellas have any idea how much a clutch should cost to replace. The flywheel may or may not need replacement. The clutch works, but the master cylinder is leaking a bit and the clutch pedal is weak. I took it to a mechanic and they quoted me upwards of 3000k. I know this is ritzy Orange County, California, but really!?

Seems slightly high. Perhaps your guy really doesn't want the job. Or maybe the quote includes new main seals and or other items. A quick cursory search shows parts at Abt $100.

Been a long time since I replaced a clutch. They're adjustable, also. Also be sure to check the pedal linkage, on the back firewall.

My oil change guy said he could adjust the pedal for me until I’m ready to have it done. Honestly, it works just fine now though, the pedal returns every time. I suppose it will get worse so it will have to get done eventually.

I never did a clutch and I’m a bit apprehensive to try. When it comes to gears, the inner parts of the engine and clutch/transmission I get all nervous.

Regardless, the up-charges in parts alone at the local mechanic shops charge leave me gobsmacked. That alone is driving me to Rock Auto and my own tool boxes. I don’t mind paying fella a fair wage to wrench, but the overhead is nuts around here!

[Roadmaster]

Changing out a clutch is not that big a deal the second time you do it but the first time it can be a little intimidating you need a clutch alignment tool and preferably a transmission jack

[FredS]

I bought a pair of 1" spacers for the front today. Will install tomorrow and see how they look.

I bet 1" isn't going to do it. Might need more spacer and longer lug bolts.



Thunk -
Roadie is right, a clutch job on a rear wheel drive truck isn't as bad as it sounds. The transfer case will add an extra layer of complexity but you could still DIY. I'd expect to pay a shop $1400-1500 for the work which would include replacing or resurfacing the flywheel. Add another $250 to replace the master cylinder and hoses and another $100 for a new throw-out bearing. Might as well replace the throw-out bearing slave cylinder while they're in there so add another $150 for that.

The last (only) clutch job I had done by pros was in our Mini Cooper and it was $2300. That was with my "buddy discount" (an old roommate runs a transmission shop), and in Kansas City, where the cost of living is actually affordable. Everything in tiny front wheel drive vehicles is packaged tightly so it's a half days work just getting to the clutch.

[philofumo]

The last (only) clutch job I had done by pros was in our Mini Cooper and it was $2300. That was with my "buddy discount" (an old roommate runs a transmission shop), and in Kansas City, where the cost of living is actually affordable. Everything in tiny front wheel drive vehicles is packaged tightly so it's a half days work just getting to the clutch.

Money well spent.

I'm dreading the job on mine because yes it is very time consuming --- still haven't decided if I'll opt for engine in or engine out, maybe alot easier engine out. I'm gonna convert from dual-mass flywheel to the more conventional single-mass type (it's a popular conversion due to lower cost + weight savings). Apparently lots of DIY guys have problems bleeding the clutch too, even well-seasoned shadetree mechanics who've done the procedure many many times before on other cars have a frustrating time with what should be a very simple thing.

[FredS]

The last (only) clutch job I had done by pros was in our Mini Cooper and it was $2300. That was with my "buddy discount" (an old roommate runs a transmission shop), and in Kansas City, where the cost of living is actually affordable. Everything in tiny front wheel drive vehicles is packaged tightly so it's a half days work just getting to the clutch.

Money well spent.

I'm dreading the job on mine because yes it is very time consuming --- still haven't decided if I'll opt for engine in or engine out, maybe alot easier engine out. I'm gonna convert from dual-mass flywheel to the more conventional single-mass type (it's a popular conversion due to lower cost + weight savings). Apparently lots of DIY guys have problems bleeding the clutch too, even well-seasoned shadetree mechanics who've done the procedure many many times before on other cars have a frustrating time with what should be a very simple thing.

Actually, the clutch and flywheel wear still in decent shape with 120K on the clock, but the throw out bearing seized up. Mrs FredS was doing a lot of slow speed driving up and down hills and curve, using more clutch than was needed because she's a girl, and the plastic piece (yes PLASTIC) of the throw out bearing melted and locked it up. I couldn't believe it when my friend showed me the part they took out. Since it was so much labor to get in there, the extra few hundred dollars for the clutch and flywheel was a no brainer. His shop has some sort of cradle to support the engine with the transaxle out so they left the engine in. Still had to remove pretty much all the front of the car.

[FredS]

I'm dreading the [clutch replacement] job on mine because yes it is very time consuming ---

This should encourage Thunk. Clutches aren't hard to replace, it just takes a lot of time taking things apart and bolting it all back together. There's not a lot of diagnostic head-scratching or expensive electronic equipment involved, it's just a grunt job.

[philofumo]

I'm dreading the [clutch replacement] job on mine because yes it is very time consuming ---

This should encourage Thunk. Clutches aren't hard to replace, it just takes a lot of time taking things apart and bolting it all back together. There's not a lot of diagnostic head-scratching or expensive electronic equipment involved, it's just a grunt job.

I was replying in specific to the MINI being a pain in the patoolie hole.

Most clutch jobs are indeed quite simple n' easy.

Very straightforward like you say as in grunt work,
and much easier too on a RWD vehicle.

I could change out a clutch on my old FWD Saab in about half a day, super easy, it was an inline slant 4 with the timing chain facing the firewall,
so the clutch was right up front. Very few cars have that strange arrangement.

The MINI clutch job on the other hand, looks to be a beast.

My experience so far hasn't been as bad as the guy in the thread below, but I've suffered similar frustrations while working on it.

Mini R53 The car that is the ongoing restoration that you build yourself again...and again...

I guess I should start a thread to log my experience with this vehicle - I mean self flagellation device. Created by the Brits and BMW to troll car enthusiasts. There's really no other explanation for the bizarre design choices and continuous failure rates. I hate this car so much. I love this car. I hate this car. When it is running, its fun. But it spends more time on jackstands then on its own four wheels...

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum ... 273/page1/

[Thunktank]

I have to say that I love the encouragement here on this thread.

If I blow it up, I’ll blame you guys.