Documenting First Attempt at Briar Pipe Making.

[joegoat]

The good thing about this crack is that it's natural. It's not because you were a dummy, like me, and let it go sailing against the work bench, the wall and then the floor when the buffing wheel caught it. ugh!

[FredS]

The good thing about this crack is that it's natural. It's not because you were a dummy, like me, and let it go sailing against the work bench, the wall and then the floor when the buffing wheel caught it. ugh!

That's why you should always buff with your finger in the chamber.

Safety third.

[joegoat]

The good thing about this crack is that it's natural. It's not because you were a dummy, like me, and let it go sailing against the work bench, the wall and then the floor when the buffing wheel caught it. ugh!

That's why you should always buff with your finger in the chamber.

Safety third.

I figured that out eventually. I just had to say some choice words and chase a few pipes across the shop before it became the norm.

Safety last, drive fast!

[FredS]

The good thing about this crack is that it's natural. It's not because you were a dummy, like me, and let it go sailing against the work bench, the wall and then the floor when the buffing wheel caught it. ugh!

That's why you should always buff with your finger in the chamber.

Safety third.

I figured that out eventually. I just had to say some choice words and chase a few pipes across the shop before it became the norm.

Safety last, drive fast!

I was joking. Sort of. If you have your finger in it when buffer grabs it it could break your finger. On the other hand (get it?), concern over a broken finger brings with it a bit more contentiousness so you don't put your hand or the workpiece in a dangerous position to begin with. I've often seen it written on the pipe makers networks that the buffer is the most dangerous tool in the shop.

[hugodrax]

Anybody else frankly impressed that his first attempt looks like a pipe? I get that it isn't perfect or saleable, but it sure looks smokeable. If I was wearing a hat, I'd take it off to 2x7, even if he isn't an MSU alumn as I had thought.

[joegoat]

The good thing about this crack is that it's natural. It's not because you were a dummy, like me, and let it go sailing against the work bench, the wall and then the floor when the buffing wheel caught it. ugh!

That's why you should always buff with your finger in the chamber.

Safety third.

I figured that out eventually. I just had to say some choice words and chase a few pipes across the shop before it became the norm.

Safety last, drive fast!

I was joking. Sort of. If you have your finger in it when buffer grabs it it could break your finger. On the other hand (get it?), concern over a broken finger brings with it a bit more contentiousness so you don't put your hand or the workpiece in a dangerous position to begin with. I've often seen it written on the pipe makers networks that the buffer is the most dangerous tool in the shop.

I dare say the lathe is a bit worse, especially when an off center block of briar is chucked up. One of those coming loose could do some damage. The finger breaking has crossed my mind. There is really no best way to go about it. I take my time at the buffer and am very careful to be sure that the direction of rotation is away from any edges that can be grabbed.

[Del]

The good thing about this crack is that it's natural. It's not because you were a dummy, like me, and let it go sailing against the work bench, the wall and then the floor when the buffing wheel caught it. ugh!

One way to avoid briar cracks.... is to work with olive wood.

My Joegoat Olive gets smoked regularly and is holding up as well as any briar.

[joegoat]

The good thing about this crack is that it's natural. It's not because you were a dummy, like me, and let it go sailing against the work bench, the wall and then the floor when the buffing wheel caught it. ugh!

One way to avoid briar cracks.... is to work with olive wood.

My Joegoat Olive gets smoked regularly and is holding up as well as any briar.

Glad to hear it Del! I really like working with Olive. I have several more blocks. My only complaint on Olive is the grain is hit or miss when you order it. The heartwood is the gorgeous part with the black streaks running through it. Once you get into the sap wood it's just a blonde wood that has little character.

[JMG]

Once you get into the sap wood it's just a blonde wood that has little character.

Blast it! The best blast by far I've ever done was on Olive wood.

[JMG]

Once you get into the sap wood it's just a blonde wood that has little character.

Blast it! The best blast by far I've ever done was on Olive wood.

[SlowToke]

This is obscene.

Cover the bowl and blow through the stem. If air comes out that crack it goes through to the airway. If not, you're good. You may not get it completely out but the pipe will be sound.

[joegoat]

Once you get into the sap wood it's just a blonde wood that has little character.

Blast it! The best blast by far I've ever done was on Olive wood.

I saw that pipe and it was not only a gorgeous pipe, but also a gorgeous blast!!! The fine ridges in the bowl took me right back home to Pennsylvania where sandstone was so prevalent. When I finally set a blast cabinet I plan to blast some Olive pipes.

[TwoXseveN]

This is obscene.

Cover the bowl and blow through the stem. If air comes out that crack it goes through to the airway. If not, you're good. You may not get it completely out but the pipe will be sound.

I’m slightly confused, what is obscene?

[TwoXseveN]

Also, the transition from bowl to shank on the top needs to be sharper so keep working on that. I like to wrap a small piece of sandpaper around something the diameter I need to use for that part.

Can you extrapolate on this? I’m not 100% sure i understand...


This evening I worked on evening out the top of the bowl and sanding down several bumps and bruises in the bowl. I’m wondering what else I should be paying attention to....

[JMG]

Also, the transition from bowl to shank on the top needs to be sharper so keep working on that. I like to wrap a small piece of sandpaper around something the diameter I need to use for that part.

Can you extrapolate on this? I’m not 100% sure i understand...


This evening I worked on evening out the top of the bowl and sanding down several bumps and bruises in the bowl. I’m wondering what else I should be paying attention to....

Be sure to sand he shank with the stem in place. If you don't you are going to end up with gaps and unevenness. Use a straight edge of some sort on the shank to show you where your lumps and gaps are.

Bowl/shank transition: where the top of the shank meets the bowl. On a pipe like this one you don't want a wide, sweeping transition. The curve of the transition needs to be tighter.

You're doing a great job. My first pipe looked like a testicle.

[TwoXseveN]

Also, the transition from bowl to shank on the top needs to be sharper so keep working on that. I like to wrap a small piece of sandpaper around something the diameter I need to use for that part.

Can you extrapolate on this? I’m not 100% sure i understand...


This evening I worked on evening out the top of the bowl and sanding down several bumps and bruises in the bowl. I’m wondering what else I should be paying attention to....

Be sure to sand he shank with the stem in place. If you don't you are going to end up with gaps and unevenness. Use a straight edge of some sort on the shank to show you where your lumps and gaps are.

Bowl/shank transition: where the top of the shank meets the bowl. On a pipe like this one you don't want a wide, sweeping transition. The curve of the transition needs to be tighter.

You're doing a great job. My first pipe looked like a testicle.

Wonderful!

That all makes sense to me in theory. I’m not sure I’ll be able to completely deliver on those things, but I do appreciate the constructive criticism and I’ll do my best!

[SlowToke]

This is obscene.

Cover the bowl and blow through the stem. If air comes out that crack it goes through to the airway. If not, you're good. You may not get it completely out but the pipe will be sound.

I’m slightly confused, what is obscene?

You posting pictures of your crack.

[FredS]

To follow on JMG's post. . .
- Sharpen the transition from bowl to top of shank. Use a chain saw file or something even smaller.
- Remove the bulge in the shank. If you 'shoe shine' sand it then constantly move up and down the length of the shank and use a 2-3" strip of sand paper.
- I like the back cheeks of the bowl to match the front. The area I struggle with the most is getting this area defined well. Look at your favorite billiard and copy it. Usually that means removing more material. But that's my preference - you may like a smoother transition.

Or you could stop where you're at and smoke it. It's not ugly.

[Irish-Dane]

If no one has claimed this, I want it. I bought Wayne's first pipe he sold here, I requested Nate's 11th pipe (11-11) right after he made number 1, I have Mark Price's first pipe he ever sold, and I just purchased the first ever Adirondack Pipe from my friend Mark Rizzo. It's kind of my thing, and obviously me buying the first pipe equals the fact that you will eventually be famous, so it's in your best interest as well. And no, I'm not kidding. I want to buy this pipe.

[Goose55]

Also, the transition from bowl to shank on the top needs to be sharper so keep working on that. I like to wrap a small piece of sandpaper around something the diameter I need to use for that part.

Can you extrapolate on this? I’m not 100% sure i understand...


This evening I worked on evening out the top of the bowl and sanding down several bumps and bruises in the bowl. I’m wondering what else I should be paying attention to....

2X, you could always rusticate this pipe as long as that crack isn't going to suck air. I have a rusticated pipe with birds-eye all over the rim, indicating it was made from straight vertical grain or flame grain briar. There had to be a pretty bad flaw for them to have rusticated such nice grain.

So don't feel badly. Maybe every pipe you fashion after this will go very well.